Arrived
1/9-1/12: Arrived, with grateful finality, on the island of Taveuni, under partly cloudy sweat pouring, humid skies. Sheets of rain lashed down for 3 days & nights (plus a week before we came).We are sorry to note that the tropical cyclone caused mudslides and flooding in Nadi, delaying school for a week, shutting down businesses and causing several deaths.
During a break in the weather, we flew in on an Otter, a small, sturdy plane like we fly in Alaska to the villages, onto a slightly “hilly” airstrip. No nav aids on aircraft, so they don’t fly in particularly bad weather…we made it! Settled into our “bure” at Makaira by the Sea, which is a small cottage with thatched roof, and a large covered deck with kitchenette (it’s wonderful cooking in the open air); it sits atop a rise overlooking the sea, and many other islands (there are hundreds of Fiji islands, but many uninhabited) amidst coconut, mangosteen and flame trees. The 4 acres we are on has 2 bures, and room for only 4 guests. We rode into town with Roberta (co-owner of Makaira ) to fetch some groceries. Eight miles of twisty roads through a couple villages where women are washing clothes on rocks and children splash and play nearby. I’ve never been anywhere where people are so genuinely happy, with big smiles, pearly white teeth (many live off the land, fruit trees, root vegetables, fish and chicken), a friendly “Bula!” wherever you go.
Our hosts (Roberta & John, from Hawaii) are infamous storytellers. Baba (from India, whose mother, Amma, makes authentic Indian cuisine for guests), and an entire Fijian family have become instant friends; they all live on the property. Lots of children, chickens, a horse, dogs, a couple cats & delightful people inhabit this magical place.
A good deal of rain over the next few days; we watch the weather from our lanai, and marvel at the changes in the earth and sky. To think that indigenous people here are so deeply woven into the land and seascape. We begin to operate on Fiji time, which is not chronological, but SLOW-MO; no running or rushing. Happy, with big smiles. I observe this must be what it’s like to desire nothing, to just be, gardening & cooking & fishing & building; fixing things when broke, enjoying what is.
The family stood on the grass in front of our bure and welcomed us with a Fijian song, so sweet, so un-self-conscious, guitars and ukeleles and soaring voices.. Lovely.
We spent the evening with our Canadian friends who hosted a wonderful Fajian style dinner.
1/9-1/12: Arrived, with grateful finality, on the island of Taveuni, under partly cloudy sweat pouring, humid skies. Sheets of rain lashed down for 3 days & nights (plus a week before we came).We are sorry to note that the tropical cyclone caused mudslides and flooding in Nadi, delaying school for a week, shutting down businesses and causing several deaths.
During a break in the weather, we flew in on an Otter, a small, sturdy plane like we fly in Alaska to the villages, onto a slightly “hilly” airstrip. No nav aids on aircraft, so they don’t fly in particularly bad weather…we made it! Settled into our “bure” at Makaira by the Sea, which is a small cottage with thatched roof, and a large covered deck with kitchenette (it’s wonderful cooking in the open air); it sits atop a rise overlooking the sea, and many other islands (there are hundreds of Fiji islands, but many uninhabited) amidst coconut, mangosteen and flame trees. The 4 acres we are on has 2 bures, and room for only 4 guests. We rode into town with Roberta (co-owner of Makaira ) to fetch some groceries. Eight miles of twisty roads through a couple villages where women are washing clothes on rocks and children splash and play nearby. I’ve never been anywhere where people are so genuinely happy, with big smiles, pearly white teeth (many live off the land, fruit trees, root vegetables, fish and chicken), a friendly “Bula!” wherever you go.
Our hosts (Roberta & John, from Hawaii) are infamous storytellers. Baba (from India, whose mother, Amma, makes authentic Indian cuisine for guests), and an entire Fijian family have become instant friends; they all live on the property. Lots of children, chickens, a horse, dogs, a couple cats & delightful people inhabit this magical place.
A good deal of rain over the next few days; we watch the weather from our lanai, and marvel at the changes in the earth and sky. To think that indigenous people here are so deeply woven into the land and seascape. We begin to operate on Fiji time, which is not chronological, but SLOW-MO; no running or rushing. Happy, with big smiles. I observe this must be what it’s like to desire nothing, to just be, gardening & cooking & fishing & building; fixing things when broke, enjoying what is.
The family stood on the grass in front of our bure and welcomed us with a Fijian song, so sweet, so un-self-conscious, guitars and ukeleles and soaring voices.. Lovely.
We spent the evening with our Canadian friends who hosted a wonderful Fajian style dinner.
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